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GSX1400 Frequently Asked Questions, Electrical Fault Codes,& General Common Faults

GSX1400 in General
The GSX1400 is generally a reliable machine, though not entirely without the odd faults, the engine is pretty much bomb proof, you could probably count on one hand the amount of people who have had major problems with engine/gearbox so don't worry too much about the information on this page, I've tried to cover as much frequently asked questions as I can. I do get asked a lot on what to look out for so hopefully I've pretty much covered everything. For anything major download the service manual and parts manuals for free here

GSX1400 OBD Fault codes (On Board Diagnostics)
Over the years many people have experience the FI light coming on. This light Flashes on and off with FI flashing in the speedometer LCD window, The bike will usually run normally even though the fault light is flashing, this happens when a signal cannot be detected by the ECU (Electronic Control Unit) from the many sensors.
9/10 times the problem lies with a connector somewhere with a bad contact, the ECU connector is commonly regarded as a water trap by owners resulting in fusty/corroded contacts, disconnect it and spray with WD40.
When the FI light is permanently on/FI permanently displayed in the LCD display, then the bike will not start.

Accessing Fault Codes
To access the "Dealer Mode" Fault Codes you will have to leave the ignition on with the RED FI Light and FI Displayed in the Speedo LCD, and using a spare key to remove the seat, and battery cover. (Please Note Turning off the Ignition will wipe out the code, the bike must not be turned off if you wish to access the Fault code).

Final Edition models - located in the battery/ECU area is a white multi plug with a black rubber cap, the plug has four wires, with the following colours - 1) Black with White tracer 2) White with Red tracer 3) Orange with Green tracer 4)Grey with red Tracer.

To get the actual fault code up in the Speedo LCD window a circuit will need to be made by joining the Black with White Tracer wire and the White with Red tracer wire with a piece of wire or paper clip. This method is applicable to later single exhaust models K5, K6 & K7 There are the correct plug in switches, but my dealer was not willing to sell me one making out they are for dealers use only.

K2, K3 & K4 Twin exhaust models - located in the battery/ECU area is a 2 pin plug, bridge the 2 wires (Black with White Tracer wire and the White with Red tracer wire) to get the fault the codes in the display.

General GSX1400 Problems and FAQ's
As I said earlier, it is a pretty much bomb proof bike, here are the problems encountered by myself and some other GSX1400 owners.

Rear Suspension
The GSX1400 has a inherent fault with the rear shocks, probably the most common fault on the 1400, the problem is with the preload adjusters, on early models of the 1400 K2 & K3 (silver coloured springs) suffered quite bad with this, failing within a few thousand miles. the adjusters start to leak oil when trying to adjust, another sign the shocks are on there way out is on the preload adjustment, there are 5 rings for setting the preload adjustment, no.1 ring being the top ring giving the least amount of spring pre tension, and 5th ring being at the bottom giving the hardest spring preload. As the fault develops you will find the adjustment will only go to the 4th ring, as the problem gets worse the adjustment gets less and less to the point the adjustment barely gets past the first ring, ultimately the adjustment knob will lock up giving no adjustment at all. By this point the shocks will have shown signs of leaking oil considerably, if the right hand shock is leaking you probably would have noticed the rear brake not working as well due to oil dripping onto the disc!! These Shocks are expensive, and will be replaced if the bike is under warranty, I can tell you the shocks are (make sure you are sat down so you don't fall over!) a staggering �850.
The later type rear shock K4 onwards instantly recognisable with red coloured springs, although there have been a few reports of these failing they don't seem to be as bad as the early ones. For the same money of the Suzuki shocks, you could buy WP 4014 shocks, these are an excellent bit of kit 4 way adjustment similarly looking but black and manual preload, and also you could buy the infamous Ohlins shocks, If you want to save a few quid buying new shocks then most owners recommend Hagon Nitro shocks coming in at around �300, a big saving and more of a 70's bike looking twin shock with no piggy back reservoir.

Engine cutting out/stalling at junctions
This is a common thing, it is a simple fix, the tick over must be set at 1100rpm, anything below 1100rpm and I guarantee you it will stall on approaching junctions/stopping.

Oil Cooler
The oil cooler can be a problem (common thing on all oil cooled Suzuki's) there are a few owners who have had oil coolers leak including myself. The coolers have a weak point on the flanges (close to were the oil pipes fit to the cooler) which fracture and leak, I had one go on my old K2 and leaked like a tap while revving, but stood ticking over didn't leak a drop, worst thing about it was, I was in Barcelona at the time 1200miles from home!

Oil Cooler Fan
The oil cooler fan is also a common question, most people have never heard their oil cooler fan working, this is normal, as the fan only starts working at 120�c, the GSX1400's oil temperature under normal riding conditions is around 50�c-70�c, this can go up quite a bit stuck in traffic on a hot day.

Front Discs
The 1400 can suffer from warped discs and worn bobbins (bobbins common with all discs) although Suzuki discs can warp, a lot is down to the type of pads fitted, some cheaper after market types retain the heat causing discs to warp as well as large amounts of brake dust, Warping causes judder when braking. Brake judder can also be confused with warping of the disk when in fact if the bike has been stood a week or two or longer this causes the pads to stick to the discs, which leaves a very thin layer of the pad left stuck to the disc which also causes brake judder, all you need to do is clean the disc up with fine sand paper. I recommend fitting Genuine Suzuki brake pads, although slightly more expensive they do last and the amount of brake dust is minimal compared with aftermarket types

Engine noises
Not a fault, but owners do complain of a top end rattle and is nothing to worry about, in fact it is the injectors ticking away, this is normal, it is what injectors do, owners do confuse it with tappet noise or cam rattle. From new they are fairly quiet but by the time its done a couple of thousand miles they get louder, that's just how they are. Some have reported cracking noises, this is when the header pipe bolts need a re-torque as part of the service schedule. an Air/oil cooled engine also sounds noisier than its water cooled counterpart, water deadens the sound which makes it appear to run quieter. The GSX1400 engine is virtually bomb proof as I said earlier, chances of major engine failure problems are pretty remote. Engines do make noises, the more you hear noises the more you listen for them and the worse you think it is. it's a human nature thing, wear ear plugs then you won't hear a thing.

Spark Plugs
Not a fault, I personally think the service schedule change for the spark plugs is too high mileage, In my experience of owning GSX1400's the plugs could really do with changing at 4000 miles maybe 5000miles (8000kms) at a push, On the two 1400's I've owned upto 4000miles seems to be the best the bike runs, after that it doesn't seem to be the same, tickover starts to get a little lumpy and uneven, nothing much, barely noticeable, but you know its just not quite right. Changing the plugs at 4000miles keeps it running at its best. Just my opinion but I thought I'd share it with you.

Bearings
Not a fault as such, more of a maintenance thing. The Headstock bearings do require greasing up (ball bearing type on K2, taper bearing type K3 onwards), The grease man at Suzuki must make a DIY size pot of grease last a million bikes, as the amount of grease put on the bearings is minimal, by the time of the first MOT some can have slightly notchy headstock bearing resulting in an Advisory or MOT failure.
Wheel Bearings, I personally like to change wheel bearings/sprocket carrier bearings every 2 or 3 years (or around 15,000 miles), this is just my own personal view not a general part of the service schedule or anything. Bearings have been known to go, this is just normal general wear and tear, water gets into the bearings mainly with washing and pressure washing the bike and with wet weather riding more so on the sprocket carrier bearing. Wheel bearings are cheap around �6 each depending on were you buy from.

Front Forks & Engine casings (corrosion)
A big bug bear with 1400 owners is the lower front fork corrosion and same with the "polished" left and right engine covers, all are alloy "polished" and then factory lacquered, the problem is the thin coating of clear lacquer get stone chipped and then water gets trapped between the alloy and lacquer causing the alloy to corrode and go fusty looking. This can be polished out once you get past the lacquer.

Power commander (PC111)
A lot of 1400 owners opt to fit a PC111, a remapable device which alters the fuelling of the bike to get optimum fuel delivery to the set up of the bike when different Exhausts and other performance enhancing products are fitted, owners swear by this.

TRE (Timing Retard Eliminator)
A plug and play device which alters the ignition timing, The GSX1400 is "restricted" in the first four gears, the TRE allegedly tricks the bike into thinking its in top gear by advancing the timing, This device has been discussed to death, personally I find it offers no real performance gain but does alter fuel economy and making the engine run a little hotter. I did find that you don't have to open the throttle as much to accelerate but that's about it. Lots of other owners have tried this device and some say it works, others think it is a total waste of money, again its one of those products you have to try for your self

Tyres (which brand??)
A highly debated topic this, I personally stick with the stock 020's as fitted as standard, I have no problems with them for my style of riding, as with anything motorcycling, you ride to the road conditions to which you feel confident, push too hard in the wrong road conditions and eventually its going to hurt! the saying goes "if you play with fire, you get burned" . A lot of 1400 owners do not like the 020's, most use Michelin road pilots 2. I can't comment on them as I've never tried them. Moral of the story is, it is what you feel the most confident about a certain make of tyre, you will feel safer and at ease, which, in turn makes good enjoyable riding and that is my philosophy on tyres. Generally you will get between 3000-4000miles out of a rear tyre, though I always fit them in pairs

And Finally......The great GSX1400 Colour conspiracy and which Colour is the Fastest!
As we all know, the GSX1400 was only meant to be blue and white? Are the Blue & white models really the fastest?? Of coarse blue and white's are the fastest, everyone knows that don't they don't they?
The blue & White bike is undoubtedly the most popular, owners of other colours have them to be different from the blue and white crew, there are no differences in performance between the different colours, though us blue and white owners like to think we have the fastest. However, There is known to be a Japanese market version which is lower powered, I'm not sure if any were sold in Europe. There is a bit of friendly rivalry amongst owners about colours (blue & white V's other colours)

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